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<h1>Varnish And Lacqer</h1>

<dl class="tools" onclick="toolListClick( event );">

<dt>Paint-on Shellac</dt>
<dd>For sealing the inside of the guitar to protect the wood from moisture exchange.</dd>

<dt>Stick Shellac</dt>
<dd>To fill gaps between frets and fretboard sides. Heat as spade, melt some shellac, and puch it into the holes.</dd>


<dt>Mastic, Sandarac</dt>
<dd>Small-amount add-ons to shellac, which make the coat less brittle. Shellac alone will develop crackles over time.</dd>
<dd><a href="http://www.bighollowguitars.com/shellac-finish-custom-guitar.php">BigHollowGuitars</a>: Finish Recipe.</dd>
<dd>Sandarac varnish recipe: Sandrac resin can be applied as shellac as a friction polish. Most people are not aware that the first polishes used by the French were of this material, not shellac. Temper the Sandrac with oil of lavender or pure castor oil crystal grade 1/2 percent per volume by weight of resin. A 1 to 1-1/2 lb cut is normal for use. Sandrac offers increased hardness, non-yellowing, almost as clear as acrylic. It friction polishes well, has a long history like shellac as to wear and tear, and as stated it was the original preferred friction polish for French works of Louis the XIV furniture. It has as good or better wear, is not as permeable or affected by skin oils. It is a main ingredient in many violin varnishes along with other resins. One downside is that it is more brittle than shellac so you need the oils suggested to plasticize. Sandrac is alcohol soluble like shellac. Use anhydrous 200%, not store denatured. Straining the material before using with medium filter and buchner funnel with vacuum is best but normal will suffice. Weigh the resin before solving, and then add the oil to the resin weight at 1% mix and let set overnight. Mix again, and then use. You can brush, use cheesecloth or - my favorite - friction polish. It can be applied while the piece is on the lathe at slow speed. It builds pretty quickly so be careful not to put too much on at a time. Let dry a few hours and reapply.</dd>
<dd>Google: violin varnishes past and present</dd>

<dt>Gummi Arabicum</dt>
<dd>Aphotheke</dd>

<dt>Egg White Primer</dt>
<dd>Source: <a href="http://www.gitarrebassbau.de/viewtopic.php?f=26&t=3907&p=62405&hilit=gummi#p62405">www.gitarrebassbau.de</a></dd>
<dd>
<ul>
<li>0.25 l warm water</li>
<li>25 g Gummi Arabicum</li>
<li>0,5 Teelöffel Honig</li>
<li>0,25 Teelöffel Kandiszucker</li>
<li>1 Eiweiß</li>
</ul>
Enough for 3 to 4 guitars.<br/>
Honig und Kandiszucker sollen die Sprödigkeit herabsetzen. <br/>
Das Eiweiß steif schlagen, einen Tag stehen lassen. Die dann abgesetzte Flüssigkeit nehmen.<br/>
In ca. 0,25 l warmem Wasser Gummi Arabicum, Zucker und Honig lösen. This takes some time. Danach filtrieren und erkalten lassen.<br/>
Vom gequirlten Eiklar den abgesetzten Teil hinzufügen. <br/>
Einige Stunden ruhen lassen, damit keine Luftbläschen mehr vorhanden sind. <br/>
Immer frische Mischung anwenden. <br/>
Vorher das Holz auf jeden Fall mehrmals wässern und schleifen, damit durch die Grundierung keine Fasern mehr hochkommen. <br/>
Dünn aufs Holz auftragen. <br/>
Habe, wenn ich mich richtig erinnere, zwei Schichten aufgetragen mit vorsichtigem Zwischenschliff mit 320er Papier. Bei mehr Schichten könnte es evtl kleine Poren füllen. Müsste man mal testen.<br/>
Von der Grundierung selbst war ich sehr angetan, da der danach verwendete Spirituslack so gut wie gar nicht mehr eingezogen ist, sondern auf der Oberfläche blieb. Ließ sich sehr gut mit dem Pinsel lackieren. <br/>
</dd>

</dl>

<h2>Suppliers</h2>

<dl>
<dt>Hermann Sachse &amp; Co</dt>
<dd><a href="http://www.hermann-sachse.com/">www.hermann-sachse.com</a></dd>
<dd>Specialist for shellac products. Polishing oil, Polieröl, shellac, 98 % alcohol for shellac polish, Polierwasser, waxes, glues.</dd>
</dl>


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